It’s 6 AM and the lake is almost silent. The only sound is the oar touching the water. A thin mist sits on Dal, a few houseboats are still asleep, and the boatman is making you a cup of kahwa from a small flask. Your phone is in your pocket and you haven’t checked it once.
Most people don’t get this morning in Srinagar. They land, rush to a shikara ride at noon, see two gardens, and leave for Gulmarg the next day. That is a pity, because Srinagar is the best part of the trip if you give it a little time. If you want to understand how the whole valley fits together, start with this guide to travelling in Kashmir.
This guide covers where to stay, what to see, what to eat and buy, what it costs, and how many days to plan.
Experience the Beauty of Kashmir
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Kashmir Backpacking Trip
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Best Time to Visit Srinagar
March to April: Almond blossoms come first, then the tulip garden opens for a few weeks. The weather is cool and fresh.
May to August: Warm days, full gardens, and the busiest season. Book early.
September to November: Chinar trees turn gold, the air is crisp, and there are fewer people. Many people say this is the best time.
December to February: Cold, with snow some days and mist on the lake. Houseboats are kept warm with bukhari heaters.
Dates matter a lot in the valley, so check which months are best for Kashmir before you lock your tickets.
Where to Stay: Dal Lake, Nigeen Lake or the City
Dal Lake is where most first-timers stay. It is close to the Boulevard, shikara ghats and restaurants. The downside is that it gets crowded in the daytime.
Nigeen Lake is quieter and smaller. There are fewer hawkers and boats, and it still takes only a short ride to reach the main areas. Pick this if you want peace.
Rajbagh and Lal Chowk are better if you want a regular hotel with easy transport and lower prices. You lose the lake view, but you can do a houseboat for one night and a hotel for the rest.
A good houseboat usually costs around ₹4,000 to ₹9,000 per night. If the price looks very low, expect old rooms or poor hygiene. Always ask for the exact boat name and recent photos before paying.
Things to Do in Srinagar
Shikara Ride
Go at sunrise or just before sunset. Rates are government-fixed and are usually around ₹700 to ₹1,000 per hour, but confirm at the ghat before you sit. Ask the boatman to take you through the floating gardens. If you wake up early, the floating vegetable market is worth it.
Mughal Gardens
There are four main ones: Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh, Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal. You don’t need to see all of them. Nishat and Shalimar are enough, and Pari Mahal is a good add-on for the view of the lake.
Shankaracharya Temple
It is on a hill and the climb is short. From the top you see the whole city and Dal Lake. Go in the morning when the air is clear.
Hazratbal Shrine
A white marble shrine on the northern side of Dal Lake. It is peaceful, so dress modestly.
Old City
This is where Srinagar feels real. Jamia Masjid has 370 wooden pillars and a quiet courtyard. Near Zaina Kadal you will find street food and old lanes, and Khanqah-e-Moula is known for its detailed wooden work. It is less polished than the lake area, and that is the charm.
Polo View and the Jhelum Riverfront
Polo View is now a walking street, so you can shop and sit in cafés without traffic. In the evening the Jhelum riverfront feels more local and less crowded than Dal. A few new cafés have opened, and they are good places to rest between sightseeing.
Once Srinagar is done, there is plenty more to explore across the top sights in Kashmir.
What to Eat
Srinagar is the home of Wazwan, a big multi-course Kashmiri meal. Try rogan josh, rista, gushtaba and yakhni. In the morning, go to a local bakery for bakerkhani and kandi kulcha. Drink noon chai (pink salt tea) at least once, and finish dinners with kahwa.
What to Buy
- Pashmina: Buy only from trusted shops and ask for a GI tag or certificate. Fake ones are everywhere.
- Saffron: Real Kashmiri saffron comes from Pampore, which is close to the city.
- Dry fruits: Walnuts, almonds and apricots are cheaper and fresher here.
- Papier-mâché and walnut wood carving: Good for gifts.
- Carpets and crewel work: Hand-knotted carpets are expensive but last for years.
If you don’t want to bargain, the Government Arts Emporium and Kashmir Haat have fixed prices. For regular shopping, go to Lal Chowk, Residency Road and Polo View.
How to Reach Srinagar
By air: Srinagar Airport (SXR) has direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and other big cities. Starting from Delhi? Many people simply pick a Delhi to Kashmir holiday package instead of booking flights and hotels one by one.
By road: The Jammu–Srinagar highway (NH 44) is the main route.
By train: The nearest big stations are Jammu Tawi and Udhampur, and the rest is by road.
How Many Days Do You Need?
Two to three nights is the right number. One night is too rushed, and it makes the rest of the trip feel hurried too. A simple plan:
- Day 1: Arrive, rest, evening shikara ride.
- Day 2: Mughal gardens, Shankaracharya Temple, Polo View in the evening.
- Day 3: Old City, Jamia Masjid, shopping, then leave or go on.
Srinagar is also your base for the rest of Kashmir. Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg are each around 2 to 2.5 hours away, and you can do them as day trips or move on.
Good to Know
Srinagar is generally safe for tourists. Security checks at the airport happen before you enter the terminal, so reach early. Carry a valid photo ID at all times, and remember that drone use is restricted.
On a tight budget? Read how a budget backpacking route through Kashmir works.
Final Thought
Don’t plan Srinagar as a gap between the airport and Gulmarg. Give it two or three slow days, wake up early at least once, and the rest of your Kashmir trip will feel easier.
FAQs
Is Srinagar worth visiting?
Yes. The lakes, gardens, old city and food are reason enough, even before you add Gulmarg or Pahalgam.
How many days are enough?
Two to three nights.
Dal Lake or Nigeen Lake?
Dal for convenience and energy, Nigeen for calm.
Is a houseboat stay worth it?
Yes, for at least one night, if you book a verified boat.
Is it safe for tourists?
Yes, with normal care and valid ID.
Apurv is a travel writer who shares helpful guides about places to visit, trip planning, road trips, and local attractions. He enjoys learning about new destinations and sharing useful travel information to help readers choose places, plan their trips, and make the most of their travel experiences.
